Faro, Algarve, Portugal

Faro in the Algarve is not only a bustling town but a district and is the capital of the Algarve.

Faro, which means lighthouse in Portuguese, is situated on the edge of the Ria Formosa lagoon, a nature reserve which attracts thousands of species of birds.

It was the Ria Formosa's rich wild life which attracted the first settlers in the Palaeolithic era. A settlement grew up named Ossonoba, an important town during Roman occupation.

Historians believe Ossonoba was the predecessor of the city of Faro. During a 500 year Moorish occupation Faro remained an important settlement even after the Moors were defeated in the 13th century it became the administrative head of the Algarve.

Following the devastating earthquake and subsequent tsunami in 1755 Faro was appointed the capital of the region, taking over from Lagos. The majority of the coastal villages and towns of the Algarve were devastated though Faro, protected by the sandy banks of the Ria Formosa lagoon was undamaged.

Fact File

The Earl of Essex & his army sacked Faro in 1596 after a raid on Cadiz in Spain.

Today Faro attracts thousands of visitors throughout the year keen to take advantage of it's Mediterranean subtropical climate. With an international airport on the outskirts of the city, a harbour, marina, train station and plethora of inter-regional buses getting to Faro couldn't be easier.

There are many Roman and Moorish monuments to be seen today and the city is still surrounded by the 9th century Roman walls. The hub of the city is centred around a historic centre a maze of cobbled squares and streets lined with any number of cafes and restaurants.

On the outskirts of Faro there is also a large shopping centre - Algarve Forum - catering for all of those who wish to partake in a little retail therapy. Faro beach (Praia de Faro) is also a little drive from the city itself (about seven kilometres). Stretching several kilometres Faro beach slopes gently to the sea and is never over run. There are a variety of small cafes and shops offering refreshments and can be a pleasant day out from sight seeing.

Another attraction in Faro not to be missed, but not for the faint hearted is the Capela dos Ossos in the Church (Igreja) do Carno. The chapel is decorated with the skeletal remains of over 1,200 monks.

Faro has literally hundreds of places to eat and drink littered throughout it's streets. However if you want to savour a variety of fish dishes you'd better head out, east towards Olhão. Halfway between Faro and the port town, on the national 125 road (on the left hand side) there lies a traditional fish restaurant, Americo's, which serves a veritable smorgasbord of fishy delights during it's lunchtime service.

There is no real menu at Americo's, only one for drinks, and there is no set limit to the amount of courses you can consume. At Americo's the only thing you can be certain of is you will get your fill of fish. Service begins at 1pm and salad is included in the price.

Heads are counted and the appropriate number of fish/fillets are loaded to platters, which are then distributed by waiters to waiting diners. This continues until everyone is full, or has left the building.

Service begins with the smallest of fish such as Carapau (Mackerel) and Sardines and builds up to meaty fillets of Salmon, Tuna and Shark with John Dory, Whitebait and Octopus in between. Arrive to early and you will be too full to savour these delights. Arrive too late and the rest of the hungry diners will have finished the serving.

Meals generally cost around 11€ per head including drinks. Though if you want anything apart from the house red or white, expect to pay more.

Faro is perhaps one of the easiest of all the Algarve towns to get to with the international airport only six kilometres west of the town centre. Buses run regularly from the airport into the town, where there is a train station providing transit along the Algarve, east to west.