Chaves, Northern Portugal

Chaves in Northern Portugal is a quaint town overlooked as a destination by many a modern day traveller as a location to visit.

Admittedly it is quite remote, situated on the northerly Portuguese/Spanish border, inaccessible by train, though doable by car or bus if you like long, winding road journeys.

But if you’re a buff of history; enjoy pampering yourself with the odd spa treatment or two or like to take a gamble on where to go on your holidays abroad then you really should mark Chaves on your map as a place to go.

Chaves is a delightful town, littered with military architecture and thermal springs. Photographs of fortifications and spas battle for prominence on the tourist information’s notice board and since the swanky casino and hotel complex opened on the edge of town, it’s fortunes are once again looking up.

The scenery along the way can be spectacular on a clear, cloud free day. Rolling moorland stretches out as far as you can see, dotted with monolithic boulders, and you could, if you’re lucky, spot the odd eagle, buzzard, or Lynx on the way. But for those who like to travel in style above the clouds and have access to their own, private chopper or plane, the town boasts an airport to which you can fly.

The historic centre of Chaves is a mix of narrow cobbled streets lined by granite stone buildings housing a plethora of independent stores and cafes, decorated in spring with a multitude of hanging baskets. These streets open out onto wide, tree-lined squares, where parking is allowed. Traditional style tractors, with trailer seating provided, park alongside more conventional Toyotas, vying for the shade of deciduous trees during the summer months.

The focal point, and tourist talking point of Chaves, it has to be said, is the Roman bridge, constructed during the reign of Emperor Trajan, which spans the fast-flowing waters of the Rio Tâmega.

The Romans originally settled the town and as well as providing a crossing point for travellers and pilgrims, also constructed a complex bath system over and above the thermal springs which bubble to the surface close to the centre of town.

Unfortunately the baths are long gone, demolished in the 17th century to re-enforce defensive structures, though swish new ones have been erected on the west bank of the Rio Tâmega and boast all manner of treatments to suit the most discerning and demanding visitor.

Literally translated the town’s name means keys. And this is an apt moniker for what was to become such an important strategic location in Portuguese history. Fierce and bloody battles were fought through the centuries to secure the town and it’s territories.

Once the Romans left many armies tried gain access to Portugal through Chaves’ green doorway. First it was the Moors, who sought to gain the fertile land in the 11^th and 12^th centuries; then came the Spanish in the 17^th century and two hundred years later it was Napoleonic troops who were holding the town to siege.

However today Chaves' door is well and truly unlocked and open and  you would be foolish not to make the trip north to this delightful town. Though, having visited the town personally twice in the last six years in both the height of summer and the depths of winter, I would advise booking your Hotel, Pousada, private manor house or B &B for spring or autumn.

Temperatures can plummet severely during winter though soar in summer and the sun can be unrelenting when touring the sights. To meander at will, soak up the atmosphere, take round of golf or broil in a thermal spa I would recommend visiting in the milder months of the year.

 What to see and do in Chaves

Roman Bridge

The main focal point of Chaves is the stone Roman bridge, which is now only accessible by foot. The bridge was built during the reign of Emperor Trajan at the end of the 1st century AD. The bridge, which stretches 150 metres, has 12 perfectly formed arches. In the centre of the bridge there are two stone columns with carefully chiselled inscriptions honouring the construction.

Thermal Spas

Although the ancient Roman baths have long since gone, there is a plush new complex where you can enjoy the waters of Chaves' thermal springs, which hare reputed to help in the healing of muscular-skeletal, digestive and respiratory disorders. The spa is well worth a visit after a few hard days of sight seeing. Not only can you relax in one of the thermal pools, but you can enjoy a massage, Turkish bath or steam therapy.

Chaves Castle Watchtower

Not much remains of Chaves Castle, which was made a national monument in 1928, aside from the Watchtower. However this sturdy granite block building, built to help stave off Moorish advances, has beautifully landscaped gardens surrounding it and provides great views over the valley of Chaves.

Fort St Neutrel

You can help but notice the enormous battlements of Fort St Neutrel, which is illuminated at night, as you enter Chaves. The impressive fort is a marvel of military architecture and was built in the 17th century to help defend Portugal against Spanish invasions.

Fort and Convent of St Francisco

Situated on the outskirts of Chaves this former Knights Templar convent has been transformed into a luxurious four star hotel. When the fortified convent was constructed it was dedicated to St Joao Veiga, but after the dissolution of the Templars this was converted to Saint Francisco of Solitude.

St Estêvão Castle

Situated in the village of Santo Estêvão just eight kilometres north east from the centre of Chaves stands a gothic castle, which it is believed to date back to the 11th century. The castle was for a while under the control of Spanish kings, but was restored to Portugal in 1231. The castle was a royal residence for a while, providing a home to to Dinis as he waited for his bridge Isabel of Aragon to arrive.

Roman Remains at Curalha

The remains of a fortified Roman settlement are worth a visit to neighbouring village of Curalha, seven kilometres south of Chaves. The remains, which are surrounded by three re-enforced walls provide an incite into Roman architecture.

Chaves Casino Complex

If you like to take a chance and take the odd gamble, then the newly constructed Casino and hotel complex on the edge of town is worth a visit.

For more information on Chaves visit the town's council website - www.cm-chaves.pt

Location Map of Chaves, Northern Portugal

 
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