The Truemans' Treks - Walk 14 - Beware of the Cats

Start: Turn left after the Barragem de Castelo do Bode (the dam) towards Martinchel. Drive through the village and, after one kilometre turn left towards the hotel - Estalagem Vale Manso. There is a large parking area outside of the hotel.

1. Take a minute at the start of the walk to look over the wall of the car park at the beautiful views over the hotel grounds towards the Castelo do Bode lake. Return up the road for 20 metres and turn left along a very clear track which meanders through pine and eucalyptus away from the hotel.

The hotel was opened in 1998 and the only 5-Star accommodation in the area. It has a superb balcony serving drinks and snacks overlooking the lake - well worth a spot of self-indulgence.

2. After climbing for 300 metres, the track swings sharply to the right and continues uphill, passing a trig point on your right. Ignore any turnings and continue on this track until you meet a main road, one kilometre from the start. Here, you turn right and follow the road for 200 metres before turning left along another road towards the hamlet of Medroa. As you approach the hamlet, there are two wonderful old Ford trucks abandoned in a clearing next to the road. I would love one as decoration for my garden.

3. As you follow the road into Medroa, take a short detour to the right to the old village school.

Although the school is long since abandoned, it is a very interesting building to wander round. On our visit the back door was unlocked and we were able to get inside and see the old coat hooks and pupils' 'pigeon holes' in the vestibule, leading into the main classroom. We found it very atmospheric and gained a very real sense of Portuguese history in these remote villages.

We also had to pass a gang of rough-looking cats who seemed to be waiting for unsuspecting travellers - highway cats?

4. Return to the main road and follow the road as it bends past old cottages and an ancient well system. The road takes a sharp left just after the well, passing cottages on your left, until it turns sharp right after 200 metres. Immediately after the bend, turn right along a track marked Rua da Varzea da videira. Follow this track to the right (you seem to be passing through someone's yard, but it is a public track).

Looking to the right here you gain a great view of the hamlet of Medroa, probably not changed in centuries.

5. Stay on the main track, passing a small water processing plant on your right, until you come to a crossroads of five tracks. Continue straight ahead (the second truck from the right, third from the left) until you reach a road in the hamlet of Vilelas, where  you turn left. Turn right at the junction in Vilelas and after 100 metres you meet the main road, where you turn left.

On the corner of the main road, three men were harvesting their olive crop from a large tree overhanging the road. Our request to take a photograph was met with a mixture of bemusement and embarrassment. . . and a little suppressed acting skills as they struck suitable poses for the snap.

6. 50 Metres along the road take the road to the right and then right again along a track, after 10 metres, marked Caminho da Arroteia. This is a pleasant walk through orchards for one kilometre with views towards Martinchel. Ignore any turnings until you meet another road, where you turn right.

7. After 100 metres, take the grassy track on your left with a high stone wall running alongside on the right. Follow this track, keeping left until you arrive at a road, the outskirts of Martinchel, where you turn right. Continue along this road and cross over another road, until you meet the main road through Martinchel. Here you turn right before taking the left turning on the road leading back to the hotel and the start point.

This road is not very pretty, but offers magnificent views of the lake to your left and there are various places where you can leave the road temporarily to gain full advantage of the views.

Why not also enjoy a coffee at the hotel as a reward after the walk?