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The Truemans' Treks - Walk
15 - Curiouser and Curiouser
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This is a
very pleasant walk through villages, woods and orchards
but made truly exceptional by the strange and surreal
estate at Quinta do Chao das Maias.
Distance: 9 kilometres
Time: 3 hours plus
exploration time
Map: Carta Militar Numero 310
and 3118 |
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Start: The walk starts in the village of
Serra, a few kilometres south east of Tomar in central
Portugal. There is ample parking in the village around
the church.
1. Take the main road out of the village, clearly
signposted to Tomar. You will pass a garage on your left
and, after one kilometre, take a track leading slightly
uphill on the right. Follow the track until it ends (300
metres) until it meets a major track where you turn
right.
2. Follow this major track through the small settlement
of Silveira until, after 600 metres, you turn left on
another very clear track. This track eventually passes
through another small settlement of several new houses
in Hortinha. Follow the road through the 'estate' until
it meets the main road where you turn left and continue
until you meet a T-junction. |
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Asking God |
Casa de S. Jose |
Road to Nowhere |
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On the track, look out for the large tiled house on
your left (Casa do Sao Jose) which has an old tiled
plaque on the wall, stating, 'Pedi a Deus um conselho,
para viver com algegria: nao des ovidos aos ignorantes
trapalha semeia e crid'. The best that I can come up
with by way of interpretation is 'I asked God for advice
on living happily: do not listen to the ignorant
blunders sows and creates'. Not too good a translation
is it?
On the side of the road there is touching memorial
cross to one Antonio Godinho, who was killed here in
1978.
At the T-junction you will see a cemetery directly
opposite, which is usually closed unfortunately
3. Take the track running diagonally between the road
you arrived on and the main road to the right. This
track leads through pleasant orchards and farmland
until, keeping left where it forks, you reach a main
road after just one kilometre. This track is marked Rua
da Hortinha - curious as its not really a road and does
not lead to Hortinha. Here you turn right for 100
metres, turning right just before a cafe along a road
marked Camping Redondo. |
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Strange Wonderland Way |
Colourful Picnic Area |
Millionaire's Row |
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4. Follow this road as it twists and turns and passes
the excellent Camping Redondo, an ideal stop for
refreshment on hot summer's days. Just past the campsite
the road swings sharp left to become a track before you
turn sharp right.
5. Follow this track for 100 metres then take the first
path on your left, over a small stream. Follow this path
uphill for 200 metres until you reach a roach with a
strange battlements, where you turn left. After a
further 200 metres you meet a major road next to some
very impressive gates on your right.
The battlements and gates are just the start of the
surreal journey to come.
6. Turn right at the gates and follow the road downhill.
On your left you will see strange posts, pillars,
statues, flags, sails and crosses painted in vivid red,
yellow, blue and green. When the road bends sharp right
after 500 metres, take the track to your left, which
looks like the entrance to a child's' theme park, but is
a public road. When you reach a cross roads turn right
uphill along a track marked, 'entrada so a pe' -
entry only by foot.
As you follow the path through this odd place, you
may wish to wander off the main track and explore. You
will find strange 'bandstands' and picnic spots set
amongst the hundreds of brightly-coloured poles, posts
and statues of ducks, cocks and lions. It always reminds
me of a cross between Disneyland (without the rides) and
some strange Wonderland where I half expect to see a
Cheshire cat, a dodo or a gryphon around each corner.
The owner of this weird and wonderful place is
apparently an eccentric (really?) Brazilian millionaire,
who lives in the area. To add to the bizarre nature of
this place, whilst the owner continues to erect his
strange exhibits, the whole estate is for sale - and has
been for many years, not surprisingly.
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Impressive Gates |
Magnificent Entrance |
Roman Guard |
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7. Follow the path uphill where it becomes a tarmac
road, as past a small chapel. Even this building has not
escaped and is adorned with bright sails and surrounded
by coloured posts and pots. Passing the chapel, you
reach a track where you leave the estate and turn right
to head back towards Serra.
Even now, there is one more surprise as you pass a
large stone gateway on your right. Once magnificent this
has been allowed to become a ruin. Shame.
8. Follow the track for one kilometre through Silveira
and back to the road to Serra. There is an alternative
route here where you can take the track on the right
just after Silveira which climbs quite steeply before
reaching a road where you turn right. Turn right again
after 200 metres along a track which leads back to
Serra. |
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